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Mozzarella arrived in France in the early 1990s and is now the most consumed cheese in the world. It floods the shelves of supermarkets, Italian grocery stores, restaurants and food trucks. But prices vary from one to two times, and it is difficult to know where it comes from and how it is made. In Italy, the mafia has taken over the market and large producers are suspected of having links to the underworld. Roberto Battaglia, a producer, has been living under police escort since he broke the code of silence. Scandals are giving pride of place to new Italian cheeses, such as burrata.