VIP WhatsApp Group: https://eletr.co/semana-eletricista-p... ⚡️ FREE CLASS: How to Do a Complete Electrical Installation from Scratch, Easily, Even if You Are Not a Professional Electrician: ➽ https://eletr.co/aula?utm_content=yt1... ------ ???? FAAALA ENGEHALL COMMUNITY ???? Join our community on WhatsApp to receive valuable tips and news in the electrical area, important information and much more. ???? ???? https://eletr.co/fala-eng?utm_content= ------ Did you like this video? ???? ✔️ Leave your comment and share with your friends ✔️ Follow our networks ➽ https://eletr.co/links - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ???? NR10 Course with 20% discount ➽ https://eletr.co/nr10?utm_content=yt1... ------ The MULTIMETER showed 110V, but NOTHING in the HOUSE WORKED! Hey my dears! Welcome everyone to our second episode of the WAR ON ZÉ FAÍSCA series. As I said in the previous video, this is a series of 4 video classes where we are teaching how to solve problems that arise in electrical installations, problems that many times a zé pisca is called but cannot solve, after all, he is not a professional electrician yet, he is just a zé pisca. In the previous episode, we talked about a problem with the DR that, even with everything turned off, the DR would not trip. It was a leak in the neutral of the installation, and we showed how to solve it. And for today's video, I decided to show you the following situation. The customer calls you saying that when he turned on any equipment in his house, the entire installation stopped working. The other electricians who went there measured 110V in the outlets and said that the voltage was ok, but no one was able to get anything working again! In addition, the customer also reported that when he turned on any load a little stronger, everything stopped working, except the lighting, which just blinked, and without having tripped any circuit breaker. But what do you mean? The house has power, but nothing works? The MULTIMETER showed 110V, but NOTHING IN THE HOUSE WORKED! Well, let's learn how to find and solve this type of situation in our mini electrical house here at the studio. I'm going to reproduce this problem so we can learn together... A house that has voltage in the outlets, but when we connect a slightly heavier load, everything stops working. This is the type of situation that makes any electrician's hair stand on end, so imagine our friend José Fagulha Centelha, aka Zé Faísca? Yes, my dear, yes, I've been in similar situations and spent hours analyzing the installation in order to find the defect. And now I'm going to explain the step-by-step process I followed. STEP 1: I started the analysis with the QDC. The first thing I did was check the tightness of all the circuit breakers. There was power on the input circuit breaker, but when I connected any heavier equipment, the voltage dropped to 60V/70V. Since the circuit breakers and the DR didn't trip, I disregarded any problem in the internal installation of the house. STEP 2: Analyzing the power input, there in the input standard. So, I went to the input standard to continue my analysis. First, I pierced the conductors with the multimeter probe to detect the voltage, and everything seemed fine until I connected a more powerful device, and the voltage fluctuated. I removed the insulation from the connectors to check how the connection was. I checked the tightness again and found no problem, but the BO continued, the entire network would drop when connecting heavier devices. Well, since the problem persisted even in the input standard, and the symptoms indicated a sudden voltage drop when connecting devices, I can now say two things: 1 - The problem is not in the customer's electrical installation... 2 - This is a symptom of an interrupted neutral, and since the voltage fluctuates a lot when connecting heavier loads, it tends to be a bad connection of the power supply neutral. What the electrician can do in this case is a visual analysis of the neutral connector of the standard in the utility grid. It is a bimetallic wedge type model, capable of connecting copper with aluminum, or only copper, or only aluminum, in short. If any corrosion or unusual noise is detected, such as a sparking noise, just call the utility company to replace this connector and the problem will be solved. Okay, but you must be wondering, is it that simple, André? In this case, yes, but it won't always be the case. I'll give you another example of an interrupted neutral, but now inside the installation! If you are measuring the voltage at the input standard and there is no sudden drop as happened in the previous case, the symptoms indicate that it could again be an interrupted neutral, but now in the customer's internal installation. The MULTIMETER showed 110V, but NOTHING IN THE HOUSE WORKED! Now you know the reason!