GR129 stage 8: Solre-sur-Sambre - Gozée

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Maxime Korber

Published on Nov 13, 2021
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Solre-sur-Sambre is adorned with beautiful autumn colours at this time of year. The sun is shining brightly and gives the landscape a warm glow. The colourful picture is once again extensively reflected in the water of the Sambre. What positive energy to start this stage. In this small village there is also a castle with historical value. The castle of Solre-sur-Sambre dates from around 1400 AD. It was built to protect the county of Hainaut from France and the principality of Liège. Today it is privately owned and unfortunately not open to the public. We then set off towards Labuissière and end up in a wide landscape. To our left and right are fields, some of which seem to reach the horizon. In bad weather we would hardly be able to find shelter here. Fortunately, the sun is still out. Once back in the civilised world we are taken via a narrow winding path past houses and back gardens to our landmark of the day, the Sambre. In the centre of Labuissière there is a lock and a drawbridge. Unfortunately, the café on the corner is not open to give 2 fervent walkers a coffee break. We walk away from the centre of Labuissière and soon return to rural paths. When entering a strip through forest area, our attention is drawn to a white sign 'CHASSE'. It is the first time on our journey that we are confronted with hunting. We will have to take this into account more often from now on. However, the announced activity will not take place until tomorrow, so we do not have to fear for life and limb. Then the GR signposts take us to the towpath along the Sambre. Apart from a few sporty types, there are few people to be seen. No hustle and bustle, no fuss. There should be more of these kinds of passages. We meander along the river until we are suddenly sent steeply uphill into the forest. As soon as we have reached the right height, we are flanked on our route by the old abbey wall of Lobbes. Overgrown by roots and branches. The wall is still standing, but unfortunately almost nothing remains of the abbey. It was destroyed by the French revolutionaries in 1794. The wall ends at the old gatehouse, one of the few remnants of the glory days of yesteryear. The centre of Lobbes is now close by. Time for our lunch break. We sit down on a bench with a view of the old town hall. The Saint-Ursmarus church also begins nearby. This church was built in the 9th century and is considered the oldest existing church building in Belgium. With the sun now deep behind the clouds and the temperature dropping, we cannot stay seated for long. The stage also has a lot of beautiful things in store for us. First, there is a short passage along the Sambre, after which we are sent up a steep path again. It takes us to the Waibes forest. A beautiful piece of nature. When the forest “opens up” a little further on, we also get a beautiful view of the city of Thuin. We go deeper into the forest. It feels like an oasis of peace and yet heavy industrial activity is said to have once taken place here in the vicinity. In the middle of nature lies the small village of Hourpes, which is reminiscent of this history. It feels strange that in our densely populated country people can live so remotely. Moreover, Hourpes station is said to be the quietest station in Belgium. According to measurements in 2017, the station had an average of barely 9 passengers per weekday. Unfortunately, the desolate location also attracts less attractive 'clients'. In the 1980s, crime cars were dumped in the vicinity by the Gang of Nijvel. Our final destination is in Gozée. To reach this village, we first have to take a beautiful forest walk. We start with a steep climb. Those extra meters of altitude can still be added. To our right, in the depths, the Sambre flows through the 'Valley of Peace'. We find beautiful hiking trails in a vast forest. Every now and then there is the opportunity to take a look at the valley. There are also benches where you can quietly enjoy the view. When we finally reach the edge of the forest, we descend into the valley. We enter the territory of Gozée. In this village is the highlight of our day's stage, the Abbey of Aulne. The abbey was - at least according to legend - built in the 7th century by order of the highwayman Landelinus. After the death of one of his companions, the robber repented and had several abbeys built in the area as penance. He withdrew and lived a life as a hermit from then on. The Abbey of Aulne knew alternating periods of glory and decline. In the meantime, the building is gradually being taken back by nature. The walls are overgrown by greenery. Beauty in decline.

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