In this video, we will make a varnish from natural shellac flakes, and also consider simple methods of finishing veneer. Shellac in flakes on Ozon: https://ozon.ru/product/shellak-v-hlo... ZLATOROS store on Ozon: https://ozon.ru/seller/zlatoros-52557... 0:00 Simple finishing of veneer with shellac 0:35 Preparation of simple shellac varnish 4:39 The simplest finishing with shellac 6:38 Multilayer finishing with shellac We will find out what to dissolve the flakes in, in what proportions, filter and divide the solution into a primer with a high wax content and shellac varnish. We will try different methods of applying shellac, get surfaces with different effects and at the same time in simple and accessible ways. The main thing is that we will work with natural material, without gloves and a mask, only alcohol and natural resin. Making a simple shellac varnish Let's take natural shellac flakes. You can buy the same ones by clicking on the link below, in our store on Ozon. The back side indicates the required amount of alcohol to obtain different concentrations of varnish. In this case, it is the mass fraction of dry shellac in the resulting solution. This approach complies with the GOST for alcohol shellac furniture varnish. According to the same standard, the varnish should have a dry residue within 32-37%, which corresponds to the top line in the table. For simplicity, we will make a 20% varnish, and from it additional 10 and 5% compositions. These will be ready-made compositions for application in different ways and at different stages of finishing. Shellac flakes dissolve well in methyl, ethyl and propyl alcohols. We discard highly toxic methyl and propanol-1 as more expensive. And we are left with ethyl and isopropyl alcohols. We will work with isopropyl (or propanol-2), it is cheaper and easier to buy. So, I pour 100 g of natural shellac flakes into a glass jar. Separately, I prepare 400 g of alcohol and pour it into the shellac. You can see that the color has changed immediately, the process has started. I will shake the jar periodically so that the dissolution goes faster. It is also necessary to shake the dissolving shellac because the released particles of shellac wax settle on the not yet dissolved flakes, preventing contact with alcohol. We will dissolve the flakes without heating, but there are ways to prepare varnish in a water bath. In this case, the varnish turns out darker and more transparent. We are now testing various temperature conditions and the effects obtained, the next video will be a report on the work done. Now, when heated, it is very fluid, but this is also 20% varnish, it will be viscous after cooling. Within 4 hours, with periodic shaking, the main part of the shellac dissolved, you can see the debris at the bottom and stuck lumps of flakes. It was necessary to either break them up first, or leave them for a few more hours to completely dissolve. But we will filter the resulting solution right now and see what remains on the sieve. You can simply pass the solution through a filter funnel. But I will filter our varnish through a thick cloth. Additionally, I placed a non-woven napkin on top for large debris and undissolved clots. I gradually pour the solution into a liter jar, moving the napkin. I squeeze out the last with my hands. Let's see what has filtered out. There is a little debris, mostly undissolved - two stuck lumps of flakes, they are easily broken up and can be dried and thrown in next time. It is best to leave the solution overnight or even for a day. Everything will dissolve without heating. So far we have received a cloudy orange-brown liquid, which corresponds to natural shellac varnish. I close the lid and leave it overnight. The next morning you can see that most of the shellac wax has settled. You can let it settle for a few more days, there are also several other ways to clean the varnish from wax, which will be discussed in separate videos. In general, the presence of wax gives shellac elasticity and excellent adhesion to almost any material, after drying the varnish film is completely transparent. The downside is that the presence of wax makes shellac less waterproof, but we will discuss this further in the video. In general, I separate the top 3/5 and we will call it varnish. And the bottom 2/5 - primer. You can see that when shaken, they behave differently. The wax in the primer remains on the walls of the can, while the varnish flows completely. 20% varnish and primer are ready, you can start finishing the veneer.