In this video, we will make a lightweight and durable 80mm thick countertop. Moreover, the countertop follows the curves and sharp angle of the walls. Honeycomb filler: https://ozon.ru/product/sotovyy-bumaz... Zlatoros store on OZON: https://ozon.ru/seller/zlatoros-52557... Materials: 1) transparent acrylic primer ATS20 Technocolor; 2) solvent stain MK0048; 3) acrylic varnish LUA 468 (3 gloss) Milesi. 0:00 Introduction. Making a countertop 80mm thick. 0:16 Veneering panels for the countertop box 1:48 Gluing the box 2:57 Finishing the edges 04:03 Finalizing the workpiece 05:01 Sanding 05:59 Finishing the tabletop 07:27 Result Veneering panels for the countertop box Previously, I would first make the box of such a tabletop, glue wooden strips to the desired edges, and then cover it with veneer on top. But the polyethylene membrane will not stretch so much, so I will veneer the panels of the future countertop separately with oak veneer. On top, this is 12 mm MDF, and thinner at the bottom - 8 mm. I took wide oak veneer, you only need two such sheets for the tabletop. And, armed with a tricky vein cutter, that is, an ordinary stationery knife, I align one edge of each sheet. For a normal result, you just need to almost put the knife on the table and precisely go several times with minimal pressure along the ruler. I still use PUR, a disposable velor roller and masking tape. The proven tape does not leave glue on the surface and does not tear out the fibers. I keep PUR until it is thick and it does not pierce the veneer in the sense that there are no wet, soaked areas. But through the through pores of the oak, thick glue stretches to the membrane and spreads already on the surface, forming small films. They are superficial, do not wet the veneer and are easily removed by sanding. I will not process the veneer in any way for now. I will overtake the panels along the perimeter to glue the box. Gluing the box I have prepared veneered panels, a 60 mm high honeycomb filling and frame parts to the same height. First, I will glue the frame frame. I monitor the mutual height of the elements when gluing. While sanding the joints after drying, I check the plane with scraps of the same frame elements. I shorten the honeycomb block so that the ends, resting against the frame, open the cell. The excess thickness of the block could have been removed even more. Usually we attach the paper with a stapler, but here I thought it would be easier to grab it with superglue. You can also apply it deeper, check the joint height and the cell does not tear. It is more difficult without a press. It will not be possible to press evenly everywhere, I focus on the front edge and the ends of the tabletop. At the back, I install a common clamp through a high rib made of thick MDF. I added a little weight in the middle. Edge finishing There is 1.5 mm oak veneer. I will use it on the edges of the tabletop. The color is different, but I hope I can align it with tinting. I am preparing a substrate from aluminum profiles and a double layer of linoleum. This way I hope to distribute the pressure and press the veneer strip tightly to the edge of the box, which I aligned on the saw. I apply the glue thicker, in two steps. It is more difficult for one person here, I will be lowering the box from the stands. I press with clamps and check that there is no skewing. Then I remove the chamfer, thereby removing the overhangs. I set it exactly to the glue seam. Then I quickly sand along the edge and check what happened. Everything is clean. I press the veneer from the end with the weight of the tabletop itself. It should be fine. But the glue seam on the front side is much more noticeable due to a slight skew and when mating with a different direction of the fibers. I will try to smooth this out during finishing. Finalizing the workpiece Let's look at the measuring sheet. I did not remove the wall relief template, I set it along the side wall from the cabinet, and every 100 mm I measured the distance to the wall so that the depth of the tabletop was the same at the ends. In the same way, I measured the difference on the end face on the right. I'll start with the end face. I mark the bevel with a pencil on the overhanging top plate and saw it on the machine. I immediately remove a small chamfer by grinding, there are chips, I will hide them with grinding and putty. On the front, we came to the embedded crossbar of the strapping, everything according to plan. I transfer the marks to the masking tape and bring out the average smoothed curve with the help of a strip of MDF. First, I roughly sawed off the excess on the machine, and then I finish it with a belt sander with a coarse abrasive. I remove a small chamfer and the upper part of the tabletop is ready. Now I will remove the overhangs of the bottom plate with a router on the bearing. That's it, the workpiece is ready, now the finishing.