This video is about #mechanics. Because I always advise that, if you are going to buy a used car, you should be accompanied by an expert. But it is not always possible. With this video we want you to be the expert. Many people ask me when my passion for #cars began. Well, if I listen to my mother, the same day I was born. But my first sources of knowledge were magazines and a book, which I brought with me, and which my father gave me in 1973: The best gift I have ever received. I still have it, it is this one, the Ariaz-Paz in its 40th edition from 1973-1974. Some people will think... "a book from 1973 is your source?... What a source!" Whoever says this either doesn't know about cars or doesn't know this book, because you would be surprised at how little, deep down, cars have changed. And this one has an appendix dedicated to buying a used car. A technical video. I've already warned you: This is going to be a technical video. We've already covered legal aspects in other videos, such as "The traps of buying and selling cars." Today we're going to focus on the check-up you have to do to make sure the car is mechanically sound. But it's worth going over it and reminding you of a few things: -Professionals have a business to defend and they offer more guarantees. -Ask the authorities for a report, it's cheap and you'll save yourself trouble. -Make a contract in good condition, with all the details of the sale, all the data of the car and the seller and with the date and time. Become a member of this channel to enjoy the benefits: / airtight garage The bodywork, the most important thing. As a friend of mine says: "Don't get confused!" The most important thing about a car is the bodywork, which, let's remember, since the Lancia Lambda in 1923 used the self-supporting chassis, in which the bodywork itself acts as the chassis. And what should you look for? Very simple: Two things, knocks and rust. Bad upholstery is not a big deal if the seat structure, especially the driver's seat, is not deformed, which would be a sign of a lot of use. Electrical equipment. Electrical faults are sometimes very difficult to locate. It is best to make sure that everything works and if there are strange things... well, get it fixed or buy another car. The engine, what needs to be checked. Nowadays, if a car's bodywork and interior are in good condition, repairing the engine or putting in a "recovered" one, that is, one rescued and updated from a scrapyard car, can be worth it... if the price or the car or both are worth it. If the engine is filthy, it demands that it be cleaned. Dirt is the best camouflage for leaks. There are two things you should look at: If there are bubbles in the radiator expansion tank or there is pressure in the engine. How do you do it? Keeping the engine at a high rev range and keeping an eye on the tank and removing the oil filler cap. Transmission. The clutch must be smooth and not “grab” right at the end of its travel, which clearly indicates wear, as well as not slipping. The gears must not “scratch” when the car is used properly and must go in smoothly and “in their place”. To see if there is play in the transmission, use first and reverse gear alternately and smoothly… if it makes a ticking sound or similar, there is play. Suspension and steering. There is a botched trick to see if the shock absorbers are OK: Push them down and see if the car returns to its place all at once or in several strokes. As I said, it is a botched trick that only serves to see if the shock absorbers are directly burst… but something is something. Then we will test the car on the road. As for the steering, except in very old cars, but many, from the 70s, they cannot have any play. You can look at the steering wheel or the wheel raised on the front axle with a jack. Keep an eye on the tires, they are expensive, but above all, irregular wear shows that something is wrong. Try it on the road. What Arias-Paz recommends, and I as his student, is that first the seller drives. This is the time to pay attention to noises and watch the pressure gauge and ammeter if the car has them. Then comes the time to stop and let the buyer drive. But at this stop, ask them not to stop the engine, observe that there are no leaks of liquids or gases and that the exhaust smoke is neither blue, which would mean that it is burning oil, nor does it smell of gasoline, which would indicate that something is wrong. When you drive, it is time to test the suspension, brakes and steering. On the way back. When you get back, turn off the engine and while you talk to the seller, observe if oil or any liquid is dripping. I remind you that cars with air conditioning emit condensation water after being in use… Then it is time to adjust the price. The conclusion is simple. Following these steps is not a guarantee that you will not be cheated, but it will be much, much more diff