Uja di Mondrone Lanzo Valleys (TO) climbing Via Rosenkrantz - Fail!

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Nanga Team

Published on Premiered Nov 2, 2023
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Subscribe to our channel / @nangateam October 12, 2023 Here we are again on the Uja di Mondrone, we are here to try again. Yes, because the Via Rosenkrantz all'Uja (they also call it just that in the area) is not new to us. We tried it a month ago and the mountain won us over before we even started. On that occasion we thought we had been beaten by time, but it wasn't just that. We had to go back to see for ourselves (literally!) what the Uja di Mondrone is and learn a more difficult lesson. A well-thought-out program on paper, a tight schedule, everything perfect for the first 6 hours. 6 hours spent between preparations, car travel and approach to the base of the north face. A thousand meters with ropes and scrap metal can be felt on our backs but the adrenaline works miracles. We had already pushed ourselves a little further last time, but today we have an advantage of about 1 hour and a half, a fortune, we think. We are motivated and we begin the ascent of the base in search of the route. It will be a nightmare. Two and a half hours climbing through canals and banks when we thought we would take 1 at most. Here all the advantage has gone up in smoke. At this point we are at the first pitch and thanks to tiredness and the unexpected unprotectable terrain without pitons (in addition to further route errors) and almost another hour goes by. We understand that there is no point in continuing, 9 pitches at this pace would take us to the top in the dark and in this season we cannot afford that. And so we go down, we give up again, it is the only sensible option. It hurts to give up after so much ravanage and effort but in the mountains you don't joke around and today we have made a big step forward. Now we know exactly where the start of the route is and, those who climb know, that is no small thing. We will return, stronger, more trained and with the right equipment. On the Rosenkrantz it is better to climb equipped with nails and hammer, the rock does not offer the certainty of placing a friend whenever you want. And climbing without a belay is not a good idea, it never is. And so here we are to present our day towards the Rosenkrantz Route on the Uja di Mondrone, a true adventure. Good video dear friends. Nanga Team

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