Tomatoes are vegetables that we like to grow in gardens and on balconies. Maybe because those picked straight from the bush, ripening in the sun, really taste completely different than those bought in the store. In addition, we can sow varieties that are hard to find in the grocery store. These can be small cherry tomatoes or large raspberry, pepper or buffalo heart tomatoes, in various colors and shapes. We will not deal with individual varieties here, because it is a never-ending story. Today we will deal with the basic principles of vegetable cultivation. Tomatoes are thermophilic plants, so in our climate we can only grow them in the ground from the second half of May. Therefore, we need to prepare seedlings of these plants in advance. In May, many stores also have seedlings of these plants available. Preparing tomato seedlings takes about 8-10 weeks. If we intend to grow these plants in an allotment bed, mid-March is most often considered the best time to sow. If we intend to grow these vegetables in a greenhouse, foil tunnel or on a covered, warm balcony, we can speed up the sowing and reach for the seeds even in mid-February. We sow the seeds in pots, multi-pots or selected plastic containers, which must always have holes at the bottom. We fill them with a sowing substrate, which must be free of pathogens and weed seeds and have the right structure for the germination of plants. We moisten them and lightly press them, then spread the seeds on it. We cover them with about half a centimeter of soil and water them gently, preferably using a sprayer. In this way, we prevent the seeds from washing away. We place the whole thing in a warm place and we can cover it with glass or foil, which helps to maintain the appropriate humidity of the substrate. We also remember to air it daily. Tomatoes germinate without any major problems, the first sprouts should appear after about a week. After another 2 weeks, when 2-3 true leaves have grown, the pricking out should be carried out. Selected seedlings are transplanted individually into pots filled with vegetable or garden soil. These can be pots with a diameter of approx. 8 cm, or smaller if we plan to prick out again, or larger if we plan to grow the plant in this container for a bit longer. Tomatoes love being transplanted. Thanks to it, we provide the plants with better conditions for the development of both the above-ground part and the root system. As a result of pricking out, the top of the root growth is damaged, thanks to which it develops more strongly. If we use yoghurt or cheese containers as pots, remember to wash them well and make drainage holes in them. Otherwise, excess water will not have an outlet and there is a good chance that mold will appear on the substrate and the roots will start to rot. During pricking out, we can plant tomatoes deeper than they have grown so far. All the more so because in our living conditions they usually lack light and often become overgrown, i.e. their stems are too long, they stretch too much in search of sunlight and are then too fragile to support foliage and developing fruit. When pricking out such seedlings, we dig them in up to the bases of the leaves, we can also plant them slightly diagonally. If we have sown several varieties of tomatoes, do not forget to mark them and do it in such a way that the description will last until mid-May. In April, if the weather allows it, you can start hardening off the seedlings. Hardening off is a very important element of growing vegetables from seedlings. It is a procedure that gradually accustoms the plants to the conditions outside, to lower temperatures, wind and sunlight. Initially, we put them outside for an hour or two, then gradually extend the time they spend outside. When hardening off the seedlings, remember not to expose them directly to the sun at first, because the leaves may get burned - white spots will appear on them. You should also be careful when watering young seedlings during their hardening off. Let's try not to water the leaves, because then palms can also appear on the leaves, weakening our plants. Tomatoes are real devourers of nutrients, which are quickly depleted in small pots. If the leaves start to fade or turn yellow, it may be a sign of nutrient deficiencies. If it is not yet time to plant them in the ground, it is worth fertilizing the seedlings. Links : Facebook : / izabella.schick Blog : https://ogrodnacodzien.pl/ Instagram : / ogrod_na_co_dzien #tomato #tomatoes #gardenwarzywny #ogrod_na_co_dzień #wysiew #uprawa #warzywnik #warzywnik #uprawawarzyw #warzywa #siew #ogrodnik #tips