The number of foreign pilgrims has increased sharply… The female owner of the town’s only pilgrim lo

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Published on Jul 8, 2023
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"Ohenro" is a pilgrimage to 88 sacred places scattered across Shikoku. Now that border control measures against COVID-19 have been relaxed, the number of foreign pilgrims has increased sharply. What is the appeal of Ohenro that attracts the world? Furthermore, the number of lodgings that welcome pilgrims has drastically decreased due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The culture of hospitality is in danger of declining... What is the belief of the female innkeeper who is struggling? ■ Ohenro challenge... "A special journey" Ohenro is a pilgrimage to 88 sacred places scattered across Shikoku. The total distance traveled is about 1,200 km. It is said that if you visit temples associated with Kobo Daishi Kukai and pray with a wish, you will receive good fortune. At the starting point, the first temple, Reisanji, I met Imir (82), who came from America to challenge the pilgrimage alone. He purchased a full set of Ohenro equipment, including a white robe, a kasaya, and a kongo staff. Then, he first reported his pilgrimage to his wife in America via video call. Imir: "This is the complete set for the pilgrimage. I sent you some pictures. Of course, you can share them with everyone." By the way, why did you decide to try the pilgrimage? Imir: "This is a special journey. It's a journey to see all the beautiful things in the world." Yes, there are many foreigners who try the pilgrimage because they want to experience the beauty of Japan. From America: "The scenery of the pilgrimage that I saw in a documentary was so beautiful and amazing that I came to see it with my own eyes." ■ "Hospitality" is also attractive "Everyone is kind" From the UK: "You can see beautiful scenery in other countries, but it's different from the scenery of the Japanese countryside. I love the scenery of Japan." Zac (19) from the UK. He saved up money from a part-time job and decided to try the pilgrimage during his holidays before entering university. Zac came because he wanted to enjoy the walking itself while enjoying nature. Zack: "I'm not religious, nor a Buddhist or anything, but visiting temples is great. It's very relaxing and soothing." He says he is fascinated by the beauty and tranquility of the historic temples. Zack: "Delicious." Zack is now completely accustomed to using chopsticks, and it's already been a month since he started his pilgrimage. He says he feels the charm of the pilgrimage every day, not just the scenery and temples. This is the "Osettai" that Zack was so impressed with. Priest: "Here's your treat. Please enjoy." Zack: "Thank you." Priest: "This is a banana, this is an amakan." Osettai is a culture of hospitality that has been deeply rooted in Shikoku for a long time, where local residents offer gifts and meals to pilgrims. Zack: "Everyone is very kind wherever you go in Japan, but in Shikoku they are especially kind. Especially when they are wearing this (white coat)." ■ "Hospitality" is a local resident's purpose in life On the other hand, there are many local residents who say that hospitality towards pilgrims is their purpose in life. Local resident (91): "After COVID-19, the pilgrims stopped coming, and I just sat there every day with nothing. It was lonely. (Recently) they have started coming, and I'm glad. I'm happy to be alive." However, it seems that hospitality towards pilgrims is now in danger of declining. Shop staff: "The places where we used to be able to stay are already closed." Pilgrimage lodge owner: "There are about 30. I heard they have all closed across Shikoku." The number of "pilgrimage lodges" where pilgrims can stay for free or at a low price has drastically decreased due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Shizuko Hayashi (81) says that her life's purpose was to provide hospitality at the free pilgrim lodge she ran in Takamatsu City, but the COVID-19 pandemic meant that there were almost no pilgrims, so she closed the lodge three years ago. Even now, when the bustle is returning, she has not been able to reopen. Hayashi: "The elderly have some kind of illness. If they get it now, I think it'll be over in an instant." She says that she cannot decide to reopen when she thinks about the health of her husband (81), who needs care. Hayashi: "I do want to reopen. It's my fault for getting older. It's only been three years, and it's getting harder. I hate COVID." Many of the people who run pilgrim lodges are elderly. Many are unable to reopen their lodges due to aging and fears of COVID-19. ■Struggling...The only pilgrim lodge in town Amidst all this, there is someone who continues to struggle in a town with only one pilgrim lodge. This is Noriko Irie (72). She runs a pilgrim lodge used by many foreign pilgrims. From Thailand: "It's

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