Testa del Rutor - 3486 m - Ski mountaineering - Normal route from Menthieu (Valgrisenche - AO) 4K

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Fabio Mochettaz

Published on Jan 30, 2022
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The most famous and, I dare say, most beautiful peak in the Valgrisenche area. The Testa del Rutor or Ruitor. This mountain rises with its 3468 meters between the Valgrisenche valley and the La Thuile valley. To make the climb, if you want, you can start from either side (the La Thuile side is definitely longer though). Start from where the road ends, shortly after the Bonne di Valgrisenche locality. From here immediately through a steep meadow behind the village and then cross the dirt road that goes up from Bonne. Continue on the dirt road cutting through the woods where possible until you reach the Arp Vieille mountain pastures. The first stretch in fact is in common with the one to reach the summit of Arp Vieille - a climb already described in another video. Once you reach the mountain pastures, ignore the path to the aforementioned peak and continue to the right under the slopes where the Rifugio degli Angeli stands. With a long traverse you reach the mouth of a large gully that gradually becomes steeper and narrower (Colle del Morion). The last stretch is very steep and it is advisable to put on crampons (sometimes even an ice axe if the snow is very hard). At this point you go over the hill just above the Rifugio degli Angeli, put your skis back on, and go up towards the Madonnina di cima now visible on the beautiful Morion glacier. You go up the glacier aiming for the steep gully that descends for 100 meters directly from the summit. At the mouth of the gully you put on crampons, brandish your ice axe and in just under 20 minutes you are at the summit! Stunning panorama, the glacier on the La Thuile side will enchant you with its beauty. For the descent you continue along the ridge to the Colle del Ruitor where you will put your skis on again (just before the ridge, already on the ridge in reality... evaluate the snow conditions). The first slope below the hill is immediately very steep, then with a long traverse you reach the refuge again. Always above the refuge, descend on wide and easy slopes to the dirt road and then to the car. Snow conditions found not excellent: in places load-bearing crust and not (zero powder). Mountaineering difficulty: F+/PD. It all depends on the conditions of the two channels. If you need the track, look for me on Strava or Garmin (Fabio Mochettaz). Total trip: about 14.5 km A/R and 1610 meters D+ Enjoy! Subscribe to the channel, like the video and, if you want more info, comment below! :)

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