Something strange is happening to Fukuoka's "tonkotsu culture"!? About 60% of new customers are "non-tonkotsu" but "the love of tonkotsu among the prefecture's residents remains unwavering" [N-Station commentary] TBS NEWS DIG

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Published on Mar 4, 2024
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Speaking of Fukuoka, it is "tonkotsu ramen". It has already become a culture both in and outside the prefecture, but the situation is changing now. The keyword is "non-tonkotsu". What is going on? ■The reason for the sudden increase in "non-tonkotsu" in Fukuoka 60% of new ramen shops are anchored by Masatoshi Nanba: Fukuoka's local information magazine "City Information Fukuoka" (February 2023 issue) has put together a "Special feature on "non-tonkotsu". It turns out that about 60% of ramen shops in Fukuoka that have been open for less than a year, as listed on "Tabelog", are "non-tonkotsu". Ramen critic Rikiya Yamaji says, "Until about 10 years ago, more than 90% were tonkotsu. Something abnormal is happening in Fukuoka." I will explain why this is the case. The first reason is that there are so many long-established tonkotsu ramen shops with decades of history that there are "too many strong competitors". According to Yamaji, "There are many locals who have decided on this restaurant among tonkotsu ramen, so the possibility of switching to a new restaurant is low." Therefore, I think that more and more people are opening "non-tonkotsu" restaurants with a short history, thinking that they have a chance of success. Another possible reason is the price. Many long-established tonkotsu ramen restaurants do not have to pay rent. Some restaurants offer ramen for around 500 yen by not having to pay rent or by purchasing from familiar vendors as a family business. However, when opening a new restaurant, it becomes almost impossible to offer ramen at the same price range. According to Yamaji, "For locals, 'non-tonkotsu' is different from ramen." Rather, it has a "special feeling" that is "out of the ordinary." This thick tsukemen is 1,150 yen, but even if it costs around 1,000 yen, it is easy to accept it because you are eating something special. According to Tsukigata, manager of Hakata Daruma Souhonten, "Making the soup for tonkotsu ramen is particularly difficult," and it takes 18 hours of simmering time and energy costs. He said that a typical soy sauce ramen can be made in 5 to 6 hours. The cloudy soup is only achieved by simmering it over a very high heat. There is also the cost of collecting the remaining bones and soup. With so many new shops opening, how has the local people's perception changed? Fukuoka resident: "It's like tonkotsu is in my DNA. It's ingrained in me." "I can only see tonkotsu restaurants. I can't imagine anything other than tonkotsu being classified as ramen..." Yamaji: "It's true that the number of options has increased with the proliferation of non-tonkotsu restaurants and the spread of social media, but the culture of "ramen = tonkotsu" is deeply rooted, so I don't think the love of tonkotsu among Fukuoka residents will be easily shaken." ■ Tonkotsu ramen in "Salty Hakodate" The owner was also surprised by the delicious tonkotsu ramen, and was so impressed by the tonkotsu ramen he ate in Fukuoka that he opened a restaurant in Hakodate, where salt ramen is the norm. Tonkotsu ramen "Menba Koton" (limited to 100 days until May 6th) was expected to have enough customers for the owner alone, but with the owner, his family, and two part-timers working, it was well received in Hakodate, with the ramen selling out every day by midday. That's how much tonkotsu ramen is appealing. ▼TBS NEWS DIG Official Website https://newsdig.tbs.co.jp/ ▼Please subscribe to our channel! / @tbsnewsdig ▼Information provided by "TBS Insiders" https://www.tbs.co.jp/news_sp/tbs-ins... ▼Video provided by "TBS Scoop Post" https://www.tbs.co.jp/news_sp/toukou.... #News #news #TBS #newsdig

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