We invite you to watch the announcement from 11/08/2020. See the second part of the cherry orchard pruning show. How to prune branches to ensure high, good quality yields for the next season? What will you learn from the film: 00:24 - yield of the Regina variety in the 2020 season 01:20 - how to manage old trees 09:28 - pruning higher parts of trees 14:20 - the top of the tree after cutting We invite you to watch and subscribe to our channel. TRANSCRIPT I invite you to the second part of the announcement devoted to cherry cultivation, this time in Regina's six-year-old quarters on Gisela 5. This is already a slightly older orchard. Regina, i.e. the basic, main cross-pollinating variety grown. And these trees were properly trained from the very beginning after planting, according to the principle of getting rid of the strongest vegetative shoots and leaving only the calm generative ones, which resulted in very good yields both last season and this season. Despite the fact that there were also frosts here, in this orchard, Regina's yield was really at a very good level. And this is, among other things, because we have shoots of this type within the crown, calm, very well budding, which guarantees good flowering, good formation and a much smaller, more limited drop of buds, as is the case on stronger rootstocks. Ladies and gentlemen, what now? How to continue to train these types of trees, already older, even on a dwarf rootstock, on Gisela 5? How to train them so that they yield regularly, annually, but above all so that they produce a yield of good and very good quality, because such fruit is in the greatest demand and the highest prices? Ladies and gentlemen, the basis is light and the play of light, operating light already in older orchards, in such as this one. That is, the distribution of light to the middle and lower, lowest parts of the tree, because we see that with each season, well, here this distribution of light is getting worse, weaker and weaker, we have more and more shaded lower floors, and this will unfortunately result in the stripping of these shoots, the lack of emergence of young, new shoots that will yield in the following years, but also, or above all, poorer quality flower buds, precisely because there is much, much less of this light here, low down. I have two such flower buds, these bouquets, for comparison. This one is from the lower part, from the lower floor, this one is from the upper part, let's say, somewhere in the middle part of the tree. You could say that this particular bud from the higher parts of the tree, from those shoots that are well-sunlit, well-lit, is almost twice as big. This guarantees stronger buds, better budding, but also better quality, larger fruit. Therefore, let us remember not to lose this light somewhere in the following years of running such an orchard. What can be seen are the effects of these treatments in previous seasons, of running these trees, i.e. a lot of calm shoots, dwarf shoots, which have such a horizontal character or even drop down. So these are the only correct shoots that guarantee good potential for yield. Of course, on every tree there will be one or two stronger branches somewhere that need to be removed or shortened, but more about that in a moment. However, what should be done and what should be done on the lower level in order not to lose vigor in these shoots? Because with each season, when they will yield well, and there will be less and less of this light, it may turn out that they will be too dwarf, will drop down too much and the fruit will be smaller or even smaller. Sometimes you hear this opinion, that on Gisela 5 the fruit is smaller than on strongly growing rootstocks. Yes, because there are definitely more of them than on strongly growing rootstocks, but also these shoots are simply more dwarf, budding, they require better fertilization, more intensive fertilization, irrigation and nutrition. But this is what we want, to simply pick fruit from such trees. Ladies and gentlemen, these shoots in the lower part of the crown should be shortened. In the sixth, seventh year after planting, when we have such calm shoots, they should be shortened so that, firstly, they have vigour, and then the fruit will be thicker, and secondly, so that new growths appear, young growths, because they will also guarantee high quality fruit. That is why here, unlike in these young orchards, as I mentioned earlier, we avoid using pruners and cutting, but rather manually remove the growths, pull them out, break them off, so here, in these types of orchards, we need this growth reaction on these dwarf shoots, so we will shorten them with pruners, and of course if we have shoots of this type, like the one above, quite strong, which need to be cut or shortened, then of course pruners are also necessary for this. The entire transcription on the website: https://tiny.pl/783zm