The highest peak in South Tyrol, the Ortles 3905m, as well as in all the Alps east of the Bernina, with an overnight stay at the Julius Payer Refuge. The normal route, which goes up from the north, the easiest technically, is not to be underestimated both because it is exposed in places and because of the glacier, with seracs and crevasses, in the section preceding the Bivacco Lombardi at 3316 m. The sections on rock preceding this passage are equipped with metal cables, ladders and chains. In case of bad weather or fog, the upper part of the route on the glacier, with a low gradient and without reference points, can be difficult. Ascent to be undertaken in absolutely safe weather, classified PD+. Start behind the church of San Gertrude, taking path no. 4, which goes up north through a forest of Swiss pines and larches. Then on steep moraine debris, then you arrive at the Tabaretta Refuge at 2556 m, reachable in about 2 hours. After the refuge, the path continues, always northwards, slightly uphill, you cross a gravel slope, then you climb a steep section in a gully and you arrive at a saddle, the Forcella dell'Orso at 2871 m, on the Tabaretta crest. You continue southwards, to the right of the crest which has equipped sections up to the Tabaretta Pass at 2903 m. From there the path rises up the crest until you reach the Payer Refuge at 3029 m, after about 3.30 – 4 hours of walking from Solda. You leave early in the morning from the refuge and follow the path southwards, going around the Punta Tabaretta, 3218 m, on the right, up to a rocky notch, continuing on the other side towards the start of the actual rocky crest. You descend a few meters on rocks (II), and then you reach the main crest to the south of Punta Tabaretta. From there begins a section of the climb with climbing passages, not difficult, on the edge of the crest or immediately to the right of the crest itself. Finally you return to the crest with an exposed passage (II), above the passage there is a bolt that can be used for the descent on the return. You then reach a secondary elevation and then you descend on a path on debris to a small saddle under a rock jump of about 50 m (chain). From the top the crest is less demanding (every now and then some parts are equipped). With easy climbing passages, you remain on the edge of this or in its proximity, there are clear traces of passage. Here the route becomes more exposed and, after some rather airy passages, you descend to a second saddle from which you must take a route equipped with ladders and chains, which first goes up a wall of about 60 meters. Then you cross to the right of the crest, always with chains and metal ropes to help, some exposed slabs that lead to a shoulder from which you now set foot on the glacier at around 3200 m. You cross on the flat to the right on the edge of the glacier itself and then go up the valley called Eisrinne. As soon as the rocks end, you go up the slope of snow and ice on the left (a slope dominated by some seracs, better to go through it quickly). You arrive under the hillock where the Bivacco Lombardi is at 3316 m and you can choose whether to overcome the slope on the right on snow or hard ice and with a fairly significant gradient, around 20 m and 40°, or attack the rocky wall on the left, it is 10 m with II/III passages and get near the bivouac where you then set foot on the glacier again. You continue along a rather steep slope (40/45°) that you go up directly. Depending on the snow conditions, there may be problems crossing the larger crevasses on snow bridges. You pass the most tormented area of ​​the glacier and at an altitude of about 3600 m the slopes are less steep, you make a wide semicircle to the left and you arrive at the summit of the Ortles.