★ ROTHENBERGER Industrial soldering torch https://amzn.to/2HSpBul ★ ROTHENBERGER Industrial RoFlame soldering torch https://amzn.to/3isEYGv ★ ROTHENBERGER Industrial soldering torch set https://amzn.to/2HWWYMH ★ ROTHENBERGER pipe cutter https://amzn.to/3jvYkMn ★ Connex Puk saw https://amzn.to/34DnLWb ★ CFH 52348 fitting soldering paste FP 348 https://amzn.to/36wbVQb ★ Cornat T580915 fitting solder 250 g https://amzn.to/2Ssn2kG ★ CFH 52349 cleaning fleece RV 349 https://amzn.to/3la7G0E ★ Quality COPPER PIPE stock https://amzn.to/3ldw6Xe ★ Sanitop-Wingenroth 11392 2 copper bends https://amzn.to/34qaFv4 The links marked with an asterisk (★) are so-called affiliate links. If you click on such an affiliate link and purchase via this link, I get a commission from the online shop or provider in question. The price does not change for you. To solder copper pipes, the first thing you need is of course copper pipe and the appropriate soldering fittings. A soldering lamp, preferably with a replacement cartridge, for example from Rothenberger, a sturdy pipe cutter, a PUK saw, metal-free cleaning fleece, fitting soldering paste and soft solder. All components used in drinking water installations should of course have approval from the DVGW, the German Association of the Gas and Water Industry. For copper pipes, the nominal size is the outside diameter times the pipe thickness, in this case 15x1. Copper pipes lose their shine over time. This is due to the reaction with oxygen and is completely normal. Oxidation forms a protective layer, which means the pipe remains tight for decades. It is the same with solder fittings. These come in all imaginable shapes such as bends, angles, T-pieces, attachments, etc. A pipe cutter is used to cut copper pipes to length. The softer copper pipe is separated by a hardened cutting wheel, with the pipe fixed in the opposite rollers. The pipe is finally separated by even cutting with an ever smaller radius. However, the diameter of the pipe is reduced by the compression, which creates a burr. A good pipe cutter therefore has a mandrel in the handle to remove this burr. Another option is to saw it off, for example with a PUK saw. This does not create a burr, but of course sawdust, which also has to be removed. Here is a comparison of the two interfaces. The end of the pipe to be soldered is cleaned with a metal-free cleaning fleece and the external and internal burrs are ground down. The fitting soldering paste not only prepares the pipe for soldering, but also contains a proportion of solder, which is noticeable by its heavy weight. The paste is applied thinly to the pipe with a brush, beyond the plug-in length of the fitting. Contact with the skin should be avoided because of its corrosive properties. The space between the pipe and the fitting is called the soldering gap. Because of the two closely opposing surfaces of the soldering gap, the adhesion between them is greater than the cohesion in the liquid solder. This capillary effect draws the solder into the soldering gap. The fitting is also cleaned with the fleece and coated with the soldering paste. The butane/propane mixture used in the burner produces a temperature of 800-900 degrees and requires corresponding attention. Soft soldering takes place at temperatures of up to 450 degrees, with the tin-copper solder having a melting point of between 230 and 250°C. The parts to be soldered should be heated quickly from all sides, not just the small area where the solder is applied. As soon as the solder in the paste melts, more solder is added sparingly and then the soldering process is finished. As soon as the solder is no longer liquid, the solder seam should be cooled with a damp cloth and the excess solder paste removed. Here you can see the all-round solder seam, which will be tight in the long term. If you liked the video, I would be very happy if you gave me a positive rating and subscribed. Until next time, if something is unclear again.