My Presets for Lightroom: https://brunofotos.com.br/presets-lig... . . 1 - Dirty lens will focus before the sensor If you wear glasses, it will be difficult to see Scene using blurry glasses changing the music - beach scene and putting your finger in the photo Sometimes a finger that you accidentally pass over the lens when you are going to change lenses can cause you to lose focus in several photos, if you take photos on the beach the sea air will also fog up your lens and make you lose focus in the photos But this mistake is very basic theoretically no one should make 1 - FOCUSING AND REFRAMING If you only use the central point of the camera to focus and always need to reframing your photo there is a high probability that your photo will be out of focus This happens because the movement you make is a circular movement, when you make this movement it is as if you were moving a little backwards or forwards The best thing to do is to choose the focus point closest to the place you are going to focus, do not use only the central focus point, but Bruno every photo I take from a different angle will I have to change the focus point? exactly little grasshopper 2 – HIGH SPEED ISO, high It is essential to work with high speeds especially if you have a lens 85mm or higher. This is very important so that you do not have blurry photos that will give the impression of being out of focus. Your photo may even be in focus but it will have a trail of movement and it will give the impression that it is out of focus, so it is really nothing, you have a photo in focus but all blurry.... To correct this You can sacrifice the ISO a little, and increase the shutter speed of your camera, forget about this business of always photographing at ISO 100 If you have a basic t5, t3i equipment up to 3200 ISO You can recover easily in post-production... It is recommended that you work with twice the speed of the millimeter of your lens, if you work with a 50mm you have to use at least 100 speed, but this is not a rule, I usually work by multiplying this value by 5 If I am working with a 50mm I multiply by 5 and I will use the speed 1/250 This way I guarantee that the vast majority of my photos will not come out blurry 3 – WIDE OPENINGS (low depth of field) Depth of field is the impression of focus that you have of your image, if you focused on something that is 2 meters away from you, the depth of field or the sensation of focus may vary according to the aperture of your lens' diaphragm. If you use large apertures you will have a very short depth of focus, that is, what is in front of or behind your subject will be out of focus. Now, if you use your lens with an aperture of f/22, your focus will remain in the same place 2 meters away from you, but you will have a greater feeling of focus, because you will have a high depth of field, until you reach a point where the focus range ends and your photo becomes out of focus again at a certain point. When we use the diaphragm very closed, we have the impression that the entire photo is in focus. So using a large depth of field will compensate for a focus error that may occur, either because the equipment is not very good, or because you moved or your subject moved out of place. Since you have a much larger focus range, you have a greater chance of having a photo in focus. The longer the focal length of a lens, the smaller the depth of field. 4 - CONTINUOUS FOCUS or Simple mode 5 - MICRO FOCUS ADJUSTMENT Cameras and lenses are manufactured in batches and this means that not all cameras are the same. come out 100% the same, there is quality control, but it would be impossible to do it on all cameras and lenses, they do it by sampling Focus error can happen due to misuse Normally this micro focus adjustment does not come on entry-level cameras like t5, t7i .... . . Instagram: @_brunofotos E-mail: [email protected]