Hasse Brandler - Big Peak of Lavaredo
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The north face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo, one of the 6 problems of the Alps climbed by one of the historic routes traced on it. After a night camped in a trench, the alarm was set at 4, very early, hoping to be off the route before 15, when storms were forecast. After a quick breakfast we go to the base and attack the route with the first lights. The sun accompanies us only on the first pitches then hides behind the edge. We free climb up to the pitches, we encounter some difficulties but the best is yet to come. Tom stops under the roofs, I continue on the traverse and do the first 7a pitch, my partner is up for the second which is definitely more difficult and forces him to milk a couple of quickdraws. I instead go out free as second, lightened by the backpack recovered using the loose ropes. Now comes the 7a+, Tom climbs it as lead giving me time to rest to attempt the free climb but the plan fails and in the end I milk a quickdraw. The next pitch, which was easier according to the report, exhausts me and with the free climb now gone I have no problem pulling the protections. We then continue to climb up to the ledge with the summit book and then higher and higher through wet chimneys and dihedrals. We are then on the ledge that runs along the summit and we take refuge from the rain in a cave. After comparing notes we decide to descend and not reach the summit given the unpromising weather. We descend first with a few rappels and then walking/downclimbing on the normal route. Thus ends our adventure, hitchhiking to Misurina and then stopping at the lake of the same name to eat a risotto while watching the sunset. Thanks for watching.
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