Grand Assaly - 3174m (22 -23 July 2023)

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Sergio Foresti

Published on Jul 28, 2023
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We spent the night at the Deffeyes Refuge. We did not approach it by crossing the Tibetan bridges, but by going down to the lake of the Seracchi via the path that starts near the refuge. Here, with a comfortable bridge, you cross the Rutor torrent and you reach the shores of the lake that you follow along the high south-west (a few cairns). You aim for the obvious rocky crags, from where the waterfall that comes from Lac Neufs descends. You climb the crags always guided by cairns that are found in the right places. Once you have passed the crags, you rejoin the path that comes from the Tibetan bridges. Here the cairns become frequent and with a clearly visible trail you reach the start of the Eastern glacier of the Grand Assaly. Well covered glacier with good night refreezing. You aim for the obvious hill, then turn right (direction NW) to the obvious ridge placed totally in the sun. Here you will notice the short stretch to overcome, classified as II. This is a short 15/20m traverse with good grips and exposure. There is the possibility of protection on some spikes. Once past this part, follow the cairns that lead to the summit on a route with short grade I passages. For the descent, follow the ascent route. At the height of the technical passage, there is the possibility of making a rappel (about 20m) on cords present on site.

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