GR129 stage 11: Maredsous - Dinant

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Maxime Korber

Published on Sep 10, 2022
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When we reached the finish of the 10th stage, we found a full parking lot and a crowd of people. Today, peace has completely returned to Maredsous. After all, it is still far too early for a tasting beer. The towers of the Abbey of Maredsous will remain in sight for a long time. They are the landmark in this region. The first part of the stage we walk in the valley of the Molignée. The Molignée is a tributary of the Meuse. This wooded area has a number of castles and abbeys. It must have been a good place to stay in earlier times too. We enter the forest and reach a higher plateau via a short climb. Here the landscape opens up briefly. A herd of cows eagerly poses for Tim's camera. Deeper into the forest we find - almost hidden in the bushes - a Saint-Hubert chapel. Saint-Hubert is known as the patron saint of hunting. Here too, game is undoubtedly regularly hunted. Luckily for us, there is no activity planned for today. We descend back into the valley via the village of Foy. We cross the Molignée river for the second time and walk towards the ruins of Montaigle. This place has a rich history. Traces of human presence were found dating back to at least 7000 BC. Strategically located on a steep rock near 2 rivers (the Molignée and the Flavion), this place served as a shelter. The Count of Flanders (Guy of Dampierre) bought this land in 1298. In 1309, his son (Guy of Namen) had a beautiful castle built here. Unfortunately, this building could not be sustained. The castle was burned down by the French army in 1554 and was never restored to its former glory. We make extra altitude meters via a forest path. We head towards Haut-le-Wastia. Just before the village we come across a war scene that reminds us of the battle that was fought here in 1940. French soldiers had recaptured the village from the German army after a heroic battle. However, because the German troops advanced further into the surrounding areas, the French became surrounded. The order to withdraw came too late and the French soldiers were killed in the battle. The GR route does not lead us to the centre of the village, but immediately sends us up the wooded flank. We get a number of beautiful views of the area. At the hamlet of Grange we only briefly return to the inhabited world, to then dive into the forest again. When we reach the edge of the forest we end up on a long straight road. On our left is the Meuse valley. Our final destination for today is below, at the water. To reach the centre of Dinant, we will have to descend quite a bit. First we make a short stop in Bouvignes-sur-Meuse. This place also carries a history with it. Several sights still offer a window into this glorious past (such as the old medieval city gate). However, the inhabitants lived on hostile terms with their neighbours from Dinant for a long time. This regularly led to fierce fighting. In the meantime, the sworn enemies have been officially united and Bouvignes-sur-Meuse is registered as a sub-municipality of Dinant. Via the hamlet of Wespin we start the final descent. We are presented with a short strip of forest. Every now and then we can catch a glimpse of our final destination. Once down, we are taken over the railway via a temporary bridge construction. We see the citadel of Dinant appear. This building just above the city centre has its origins in 1051. It is a fortified stronghold that was intended to provide protection in times of war. Since 1956, tourists have been able to visit the citadel via a cable car. Dinant is also the birthplace of Adolphe Sax, the inventor of the saxophone. The bridge over the Meuse is decorated with various colored examples of this musical instrument. This vibrant city is our final destination for today. Just like Maredsous, many people know their way to this tourist attraction. The many catering establishments on the banks of the Meuse are packed. It becomes a real search to find a place for 2 hungry hikers and their children. Many people are also queuing for a boat trip. There is certainly no shortage of tourist attractions. The hustle and bustle here is in stark contrast to the peace and quiet on our walking route. We can look back with satisfaction on a wonderful day of walking. Arlon has come a little closer, but still many kilometers of walking away. To be continued… Music: https://www.purple-planet.com

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