Mountaineering equipment: https://sport-marafon.ru/catalog/alpi... Pobeda Peak 7439m. The most difficult and northernmost seven-thousander. Artem Tsentsevitsky spoke about the ascent in 2023. At the lecture: - what is difficult about this mountain and why it is more difficult to climb it than half of the eight-thousanders; - why no one has managed to successfully climb the mountain over the past two years; - what are the routes to Pobeda Peak; - the necessary experience and equipment for the ascent; - what are the features of the ascent today; - how much does it cost to climb this peak. Speaker: ARTEM TSENTSEVITSKY - CMS in mountaineering and mountain tourism. Member of the Belarusian national mountaineering team. Mountain guide. Timestamps: 0:00 - Intro 0:45 - About the speaker. About Pobeda Peak 1:41 - Location on the map. Weather. Wind up to 100 km/h. The Snow Leopard title 2:52 - Team. The idea of ​​the ascent 4:00 - Routes on the map 5:26 - Classic route. Avalanche danger. The weather is never good 8:58 - Logistics. How to get to the mountain? Helicopter flight. Base with a bathhouse 11:44 - Acclimatization on Khan Tengri. The ascent 16:05 - Preparing for the ascent to Pobeda Peak. Hanging ropes 19:36 - Climb to 5800m. Worsening weather. Overnight stay in a snow cave 21:21 - Further along the route. Why such sad statistics? 23:40 - Plan VS Reality. Snow up to chest level. Views from 6400m. Weather 27:52 - Vazi Pshavela (6918 m). Cave. Why aren't the bodies brought down? 29:26 - Storming the summit. Left without gas and water. Eating snow 32:27 - Path along the ridge (7300m). Artem's fall 35:21 - Difficult section. Summit 38:55 - Descent. Night. Warmed ourselves with one rescue blanket. Moving in a blizzard 48:05 - Long-awaited cave. Blizzard. Further descent in the snow. Avalanches. Wind 52:23 - Descended to the first camp? Motivation with goulash 55:57 - The way back. A pendant for the ascent 57:10 - Contacts. Questions: 57:26 - The cold worsens your health. How does it affect your health? The altitude? 59:03 - Is it ethical to leave a participant alone on the route? Alpine style 1:02:07 - Do you have some kind of ritual before the ascent? 1:02:58 - How do you prepare? 1:03:43 - Should you take an isotonic drink or something like that? 1:05:35 - What is the main difficulty in replacing ropes at Pobeda Peak? 1:06:42 - What contributed to such effective work at altitude? 1:08:29 - Did you get frostbite? A festering finger at 7000m 1:10:49 - About the meeting at the base camp 1:11:45 - Did Dima know about the second rescue blanket? 1:12:29 - Did you have hallucinations? 1:13:30 - What date did you ascend? 1:14:03 - Is it possible to not wake up if covered in snow? 1:15:29 - Did you have other hallucinations? 1:16:30 - What should the volume of the cave be? 1:18:02 - Was there a desire to go down? Doubts? About experience 1:20:20 - What can you freeze at altitude? Pneumonia? 1:21:45 - Was the only way to go along the ridge? #CMLectureClimbing #climbing #mountaineering #travel