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I would like to add a few more things that I didn't say in the video. When these swarms are formed, if you have a mated queen, you put 2 frames of brood closed from slat to slat plus two frames of food (pollen and honey). You don't need a queen because if you make multiple swarms, it's a big waste of time. Just if you notice one, don't transfer it to the newly formed swarm because after 5 days when the inspection is done, if you haven't transferred the queen, the bees will withdraw the queen cells, if they are, they won't. Then you have the option of placing the young queen in the colony from which you were swarming or letting the bees make a new one from the formed queen cells and in the formed swarm, remove the old queen and add a new one (always in a cage). You should take care in previously formed swarms where the bees have withdrawn the queen cells to remove all the queen cells the day before introducing the young queen, and at the latest and most safely 10 days, because if you are late and wait 13-14 days, you may have a forced queen hatching, which if you do not see it and do not remove it when introducing the mated queen, will kill the queen as soon as the bees release her from the cage. I would also add that if you do not have any queens when swarming, one of the frames with the brood should be with one-day-old larvae and on the 6th day after the nucleus is formed, destroy all the closed queen cells and leave 1-2 open ones, narrowing them down to 1-2 bees so that they can enter until the queen mates, i.e. not pass. Greetings