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Guidebooks call the town of Esso in Kamchatka the Switzerland of the Far East, and also the happiest village in Russia. There are almost no unemployed people here, and the population is growing year after year. Esso has plenty of cafes, shops and hotels, the only thing missing is a good road. To get to the village from Petropavlovsk, you will have to drive more than 500 kilometers, half of which is on a dirt road. Despite this, residents of large cities are increasingly coming here. All economic crises have bypassed the village. And the virus, which has already frightened the whole world, will probably get here last.