Elbrus from the East: Point of no return.

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Dmitry Sinitsyn

Published on Sep 18, 2024
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Rubicon, Point of No Return – The Die is Cast… Some decisions can cost a lot, or they can lead to success. How to weigh the risks correctly in conditions of uncertainty, in the absence of communication and without hope of rescue? Who is ready to take responsibility for a key decision if there is no formal leader in the team? Climbing Elbrus from the East in May has one very pleasant bonus – an almost guaranteed absence of other climbers: so early in the spring there are no fools yet to trample the snow in the Irikchat gorge. Except for Kostya and me – two not very experienced climbers who decided to take this longest route in length and altitude gain to the highest point in Europe. Timestamps: 00:00 How did we end up here? 02:20 Kostya’s offer. Difficulties. 8 days of autonomous travel. 03:20 Mineralnye Vody Airport. Burnt-out building. Meeting with Kostya. Road. Dinner 04:59 Day 1 Let’s leave! A story about the beginning of the journey. 05:55 Why from the East? 07:59 Our goal today. First stop. Ushba. 10:00 First look at Elbrus. 10:31 Entering the Dense Forest. Bonuses of the hike. 11:38 Meeting a yak 13:00 Viewpoint 14:31 First snowfield. Stop. Danone is not leaving Russia. 15:32 Altitude 2700 Reminds me of a German airfield. Kostya’s second wind. 16:54 First overnight stay at 2950. Lunch. 19:00 Evening. Worsening weather. Summary of the day. 20:18 Day 2 Trekking through the snowy silence. 22:40 Off the trail. Stop. Frying pan on Elbrus. 24:28 Camp 2 Setting up the tent. 26:03 How Kostya trains. 26:58 Why with Kostya. Results of the day. 29:25 Day 3 Crossing the glacier 31:00 Rest. Let's go up. 32:57 Principles of Kostya's training 36:16 Everyday life. Cellular communication 37:25 Results of the day 38:43 Day 4 Dawn in the mountains. We go out for acclimatization. 40:18 Putting on crampons. Undressing. Climbing. 41:43 Kostya found a site at 5100 42:53 Descending to the camp. Avalanche danger. 45:09 Arrived at the camp. Kostya's dream. 46:03 How I lost my flashlight. 46:26 Cooking show 48:13 Results of the day. How long ago it was! 49:47 Day 5 Dawn 51:31 Altitude 5100 Such a view! 52:58 Reconnaissance 53:31 First key section 55:15 Second key section. Drone reconnaissance 55:15 Discussion, route selection 59:58 Descended to camp. Dinner. Results of the day. 01:01:46 Day 6 A difficult decision. 01:03:05 What's according to plan? 01:03:47 We're waiting 01:04:50 Hooray! The sun! 01:05:12 Kostya's thoughts. My comments 01:06:31 Dinner. The storm is getting stronger 01:08:01 Kostya goes to repair the guy ropes 01:10:04 An hour later, he goes to repair it again 01:11:12 Boot repair 01:11:42 What's next? Possible solutions. 01:12:44 Results of the day. Satisfaction. 01:13:21 Day 7 Didn't go out! 01:14:21 Kostya's thoughts on the decision-making process 01:17:01 Let's go! 01:18:07 Under the rock 01:19:49 Of course - up! 01:21:22 Halt. Towards the White Silence. Freshfield cliffs. Lost. Back to the glacier 01:22:52 Weather improvement 01:24:00 Heading to the summit 01:24:57 The summit. Congratulations 01:26:33We're staying the night at the summit 01:27:47 Stay tuned. Beautiful! From the drone! Calm! 01:30:36 Summary of the day: A great goal. Coldrex instead of cognac. Believe it or not 01:36:17 Day 8 Getting ready 01:37:31 Going down 01:38:55 People! 01:39:42 Great goal. Let's have some tea. 01:40:26 Why did we do all this? From Drone through both peaks to Freshfield rocks and down Subscribe to my channel: / @dmsinitsyn Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dmsinitsyn/... Facebook: / dmsinitsyn

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