Iconic and unmistakable peak in the Mont Blanc massif, it stands out in all its grandeur at the start of the famous Rochefort ridge, the Dente del Gigante or Dent du Géant for our French friends. Just above 4000 meters but technically and physically a normal route that gives nothing away, demanding and very exposed for its entire ascent itinerary. It starts from the Rifugio Torino where the Skyway arrives. We decided to try to tackle the route in a day starting with the first ascent from Courmayeur and it went well for us as strangely the Dente was not crowded and we did not have to queue in any way either during the ascent or descent. You cross the Gigante glacier in the direction of the Dente and the Rochefort ridge. Once at the base of the gum we decided to take advantage of a snowy gully to speed up and minimize the risks of the climb. The gum is in fact the most dangerous place due to falling rocks, often inevitably detached by climbers who precede higher up... With great care you climb it all the way up, tackling some easy rock passages and a key point equipped with fixed ropes. Once at the top you are under the south face of the Dente where our 'normal route' begins. You traverse all the way to the left in the direction of the north-west face where the real rope pitches begin. The climb is in fact practically all about hard climbing and should be tackled as if it were a long route. The lengths of the pitches are not fixed but can be adjusted as you like as you can find various anchors along the route. The first pitch is very tough and tiring, then one a little easier follows until you reach the very famous Placche Burgener. The first ones, more supported, are climbed quite easily by pulling yourself up to the hemp ropes present. Gradually however the verticality increases and on the way out towards the final crest you find yourself totally vertical with decidedly exposed and tiring passages. The final crest is not difficult but vertigo is prohibited. Another short pitch and you are on the actual summit where the iconic Madonna statue is located, scratched by the numerous lightning bolts that strike this natural antenna of Mont Blanc. You might think that the hard work is over? But no, because the descent route takes place with some truly terrifying abseils along the entire southern face of the Dente. The first, short one, helps us to lower ourselves from the Madonna statue to go and get the first real belay located just below the collar. With a 50-meter abseil into the void you reach the next belay which is not entirely easy and you reach it by swinging a bit in the void. This is followed by another abseil of about 50 meters to reach the last uncomfortable belay. From here a final, easier 25-meter abseil finally drops you onto the glacier below. At this point you return via the ascent route, always trying to pay maximum attention when descending from the gum. Climbing difficulty: the route is given as AD on many reports, but in my opinion it is really too narrow... Personally I would classify it as D-. My heartfelt advice is NOT to underestimate this climb! Necessary material: Helmet, harness, crampons and ice axe, 2 60-meter ropes I recommend for faster descents, about ten quickdraws, safety material on the glacier. I also recommend some slings and, if you have them, some nuts and friends to supplement - especially at the beginning of the route where there is little material on site. Finally, obviously the material to secure your partner during the pitches and to abseil. For the track of the trip, look for me on Strava or Garmin (Fabio Mochettaz). Total Trip: about 7 km round trip and 780 meters D+ (of which about 200 are pure climbing) Enjoy! Subscribe to the channel, like the video and, if you want more info, comment below! :) You can also find me on Instagram and Facebook: Follow me on Facebook / fabio.mochettaz Follow me on Instagram / fabio_mochettaz