Colle Morion - Towards the Head of Rutor - Valgrisanche (AO)

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Nanga Team

Published on Premiered Jul 23, 2024
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Subscribe to our channel / @nangateam Today we are aiming for Testa del Rutor starting from Bonne but, as we know, plans sometimes get messed up.. Super peaceful day in Valgrisanche (AO), transfer from Biella a bit long (and expensive..) but for a place like this it's great. Starting from Menthieu near Bonne (AO) a pleasant walk begins that takes us to the Rifugio degli Angeli (about 1000 m D+ up to here). On the way there are many ideas to stop at starting from a landscape of those that just want to be admired to the many encounters. The route is busy, nice to see groups walking up here. Special the meeting with @danieleproietti Roman youtuber and mountain enthusiast who accompanies a nice group of kids. A nice gag comes out of it.. thanks Daniele! At the refuge we equip ourselves properly, it's getting serious now. Tied up, crampons on and 'fallen' (here you go!) we set off following a not very recent track for the normal route at the head of the Rutor. The glacier is in excellent condition and we only see one crevasse (or maybe it's just a crack in the snow, who knows). We proceed well following a GPX track brought from home which, we will discover later, does not faithfully follow the normal route. It seems to point to a gully, probably this is the direct route (my fault for not having understood this before!). Unfortunately on this route, at the top, there are obvious and uninviting cornices and we are not equipped to rummage around with two ice axes today... so no gully and we proceed on the glacier. We continue hoping to find a way to reach the summit which we are getting very close to. In fact we reach Colle Morion and from here we realize that to reach the summit we would need to climb up a beautiful rocky tower. It does not seem difficult but even in this case we are not properly equipped and on top of that the weather is worsening. The beautiful scramble we made to get here already satisfies us a lot (1500m D+) so we decide that for today it's enough. Going down, turning left, we clearly see the Madonna at the summit and we realize that we were really close! It doesn't matter, you have to know how to accept changes and for the summit we can come back another time. Extremely happy we go down to the Rifugio degli Angeli (a name that couldn't be more appropriate for this location) where we just miss meeting @NicolaAnsaldo (damn, today is not exactly the day!) ... then down to the house. Enjoy the view and see you next time! Nanga Team

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