In many cases, the reason for the refusal of service is residues that arise from the long standing time of the fuel residues in the carburettor. ►Information, SPARE PARTS & TOOLS for the video can be found here: http://box6014.webnode.com/heimwerken... These flake-shaped incrustations clog the nozzles and prevent or impair the supply of fuel. Tips: #1. Even if the fuel was drained via the drain screw in the float chamber before dismantling, there are still residues in the carburettor that escape when dismantling. There is a FIRE RISK. This also creates harmful fumes. Cleaning work should therefore only be carried out in well-ventilated areas! #2. Before the carburettor is dismantled, it should be thoroughly cleaned on the outside. This not only looks better, but it also prevents dirt adhering to the outside from falling into the cleaned interior of the carburettor. #3. If the screws are stuck and cannot be loosened with a screwdriver, you can use a pipe wrench to loosen them. #4. If the housing is dismantled, the rubber seals often stick to the sealing surfaces. Care should be taken not to tear them. To prevent them from sticking again, you can apply a light film of silicone grease to the seals before assembly. #5. Stuck nozzles: The nozzles inside the carburetor are often screwed in very tightly (to prevent them from coming loose during operation) and sometimes they are baked on. Since they are made of a relatively soft material, a high-quality, precisely fitting screwdriver should be used to loosen them so that the slot in the nozzle is not rounded off. If the carburetors have several nozzles of the same design, confusion should be avoided. Even if they look the same on the outside, the holes can have different diameters. The diameters are printed on many nozzles (unfortunately not all). #6. When reassembling, care should be taken to ensure that the screws are tightened evenly and not too tightly to avoid warping components or damaging threads. This also prevents seals from being crushed and damaged too much. #7. Do not twist the adjusting screws if possible. However, with many vehicle carburettors, some adjusting screws have to be unscrewed in order to clean the jets and channels behind them. The settings of the screws should be noted here. This can be done by carefully turning the adjusting screw in as far as it will go and counting and writing down the number of turns (e.g. 2.5 turns). When reassembling, the adjusting screw is then turned in as far as it will go and then unscrewed again by the number of turns noted. There is often a sealing ring on the adjusting screws which serves to seal and secure the screws. This should be present and not damaged. #8. If the device/vehicle does not run despite having cleaned the carburetor, do not be afraid to clean it again. It can happen that dissolved residues are flushed out of a channel when the engine is started and then clog a nozzle again. #9. Carburettors with diaphragms (e.g. scooter carburettor) should only be blown out with compressed air once all the diaphragms have been removed. Otherwise they could be damaged. #10. Carburettor with needles: The needle has several notches which can be used to adjust the petrol/air ratio. When reassembling, the same notch should be used. You should also make sure that the needle is not bent. Otherwise it could jam and the carburetor would not work properly. #11. When assembling and attaching to the engine, you should always check that the seals are intact and that the sealing surfaces are clean/undamaged/flat. Leaks can allow air to be drawn in, which can lead to the mixture becoming lean. For two-stroke engines, this can mean premature engine death due to insufficient lubrication. #12... on http://www.box601.de ►*Order carburetor cleaner now from AUTODOC: https://www.autodoc.de/?utm_source=de... The links marked with an asterisk are affiliate links through which I may receive a commission. There are no additional costs for you. ------------------------------------------------ Music: Mr. BassInvade - Corona Rock, Cool One