Cervino (Matterhorn) - 4478 m - Via Cresta del Leone from Cervinia (Valtournenche - AO) 4K

103,266 views

Fabio Mochettaz

Published on Aug 27, 2023
About :

Cervino, Matterhorn, Gran Becca, call it what you want but it's always her: the most famous mountain in the Alps! Finally, after many cancellations, just as much training and after having dreamed of it since I was a boy, I touch the summit of this superb mountain. Furthermore, the route taken and described in the video is the very famous and history-rich Cresta del Leone. You start from Cervinia, in the large car park near the golf course and, after crossing part of the town centre, you take the path that leads to the Rifugio dell'Oriondé. From the Refuge, the direction to take is the one that leads to the Croce Carrel. After having passed, always without difficulty, at this point you follow the cairns in the direction of the Testa del Leone. You climb up the debris until you cross an easy canal that goes up to the left, the Whymper canal (II steps helped by a fixed rope at the exit). Once outside, keep to the right of a large snowfield and always through uncomfortable debris you get under the Testa del Leone. Here there is a long and delicate traverse to be done as quickly as possible due to the danger of collapses and avalanches from the Testa del Leone. After the traverse you are at the Colle del Leone where, for convenience, we decide to tie up. At the beginning, for easy climbing steps you reach the Seiler slabs, where the difficulties increase, until you find the first fixed ropes that you follow to the most physical section - in my opinion - of the entire itinerary: the famous Cheminée. After having overcome this vertical wall equipped with hemp and some exit brackets you have practically arrived at the Capanna Carrel. In the morning at about 4:30 we leave the refuge in the direction of the first arduous and physical section of the ridge: the alarm clock rope. Once you have passed this last one, you continue quite vertically following the hemp ropes, you pass under the Gran Torre, through the Brèche Giordano, the Placche Crétier and the Mauvais Pas. Be careful because approximately in this section you can find a path that on the flat takes you towards the centre of the south face of the Matterhorn - you must NOT follow it, but climb directly up the slabs on the left (look for cairns even if I know that in the dark it is not easy). After the Mauvais Pas you arrive at the famous Rocher des Ecritures where the initials of the names of the climbers who have made the history of this mountain are engraved: a unique emotion to be able to touch them with your hand! You then continue finding a metal cable that passes through the remains of an ancient snowfield: the Linceul. After the cable you continue climbing until you find the Gran Corda, a vertical chain of about 30 metres that will allow you to emerge on the crest. From here the climbing becomes easier and more fun until you reach the Pic Tyndall. We continue up and down on an exposed ridge until we reach the famous Enjambée: an exposed passage to be done in double split, however facilitated by a fixed rope. We then go back up towards the Col Felicité, from which the final, most vertical part of the itinerary begins: the Testa del Cervino. We start with vertical hemp ropes - try to do them quickly to avoid burning your already tired arms - until we reach the famous Scala Jordan. After the Jordan, another exposed sloping slab, the Pirovano ropes and, finally... we reach the long-awaited summit cross! The emotion you feel is unique, you cannot help but shed a few tears of joy, your thoughts wander endlessly up there, everything is magnificent, suspended! To finish the climb, you put on crampons and take the ice axe to traverse the very exposed final ridge of the Matterhorn towards the Swiss summit. NB: the real summit is in fact the Swiss one, 2 meters higher than the Italian one! Don't miss it otherwise you won't have been on top of the Matterhorn 100%! :) The descent is done by faithfully following the ascent route. My advice is to only do the essential rappels and for the rest to downclimb safely. To give you an idea we did 3 rappels of 30 meters to descend the Testa del Cervino, another of 30 meters to the Gran Corda, another of 30 meters to the Corda della Sveglia and finally the last one of about 30 meters to the Cheminée. What can I say guys, everything went well, the view is breathtaking, as well as the route and the emotions felt... the Matterhorn did not disappoint our expectations at all. Mountaineering difficulty: D Necessary equipment: helmet, ice axe, crampons, 5 or 6 quickdraws, rappelling equipment and 60 meter rope (or even two half 30 meters). Friends are not necessary, if you put them on it is because you are on the wrong route! For the track of the trip look for me on Strava or Garmin (Fabio Mochettaz). Total Trip: About 17.5 km and 2470 meters D+ Enjoy! Subscribe to the channel, like the video and, if you want more info, comment below! :)

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