Belay devices – what are the differences? Bergzeit

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Bergzeit

Published on Aug 15, 2021
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If you're wondering which belay device you should use when climbing, then this video is just right for you! Climbing expert Andi explains everything about modern belay devices and introduces you to his favorites! 00:00 Intro 00:14 You have to master your belay device! 00:41 Categories of belay devices 01:16 Munter hitch 02:18 Tube 03:44 Autotuber 05:32 Semi-automatic belay devices 10:51 Tip: Jul2 by Edelrid 12:40 Tip: Petzl GriGri 15:03 Weight differences between climber and belayer 17:21 Outro The most common belay options: 1. Munter hitch (HMS): Belaying with an HMS carabiner is part of basic belaying technology. The material required is minimal and the functionality is reliable when used correctly. Nowadays mainly used in alpine climbing - not sport climbing. 2. Tuber: Tubers are practical belay devices that come in various designs. They allow you to belay a little more “softly”, which reduces the impact force. Along with the HMS belay, belaying with tubers is part of basic climbing knowledge. Tubers with plate function are very common, especially when climbing multi-pitch routes. 3. Autotuber: Belay devices for climbing such as the Edelrid MegaJul, the Salewa Ergo Belay or the Mammut Smart are similar to tubers in terms of handling. However, autotubers have a blocking function that supports the belaying hand when used correctly. If you have mastered belaying with a tuber, switching to an autotuber is relatively easy, because the handling is hardly any different. Devices such as the Ergo Belay or the Click Up enable very sensitive dosing when lowering. 4. Semi-automatic devices: Semi-automatic devices block the rope passage using a mechanism - such as a cam. The Grigri from Petzl is the top dog here. In spring 2017, the Grigri+ was launched in an entry-level version. But devices such as the Camp Matik or the Wild Country Revo, which was released in 2018, are also bringing a breath of fresh air to the belay device landscape. However, the rope payout here sometimes takes a bit of getting used to. 5. Pre-resistance: The Edelrid Ohm is the perfect solution for rope teams with a large weight difference. The Ohm is an additional mechanical resistance that can be built into the rope. The rule of thumb previously was that the climber in lead climbing could weigh a maximum of 1.2 times the belayer, but with the intermediate Ohm you can add up to 30 kilos. So it is not a belay device, but an addition to the belay device.

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