???? War on Zé Faísca Event: https://eletr.co/ep-red?utm_content=k... ------ ???? FAAALA ENGEHALL COMMUNITY ???? Join our community on WhatsApp to receive valuable tips and news in the electrical area, important information and much more. ???? ???? https://eletr.co/fala-eng ------ Did you like this video? ???? ✔️ Leave your comment and share with friends ✔️ Follow our networks ➽ https://eletr.co/links - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - In the last class we prepared a complete List of Materials that we will need to use and also determined which tools to take to the work, if you haven't watched that class yet, as soon as you finish this one, run there and watch it. In today's class, we're going to lay out the electrical conduits in our 3D house and, as a bonus, give you tips on this highly important step in the project. Laying out electrical conduits is one of the most important tasks in electrical installations, since they're responsible for carrying the cables that supply all the property's power points. Standard NBR-5410 covers 18 items with information that we should follow both when choosing and installing them. We've highlighted the most important ones here. Item 6.2.11.1.1 of the standard states that "The use of products that are not expressly presented and marketed as such as electrical conduits is prohibited." So, don't put a garden hose in your projects, okay? Item 6.2.11.1.2 states that "only non-flame-propagating electrical conduits are permitted in electrical installations. So be very careful when buying cheap brands on the market." Another thing, item 6.2.11.1.3 states that “Only conduits that can withstand the deformation forces characteristic of the construction technique used are permitted in built-in installations.” In other words, the conduits are different for the slab, wall and floor, since they withstand different forces. We generally use yellow conduit on walls, orange conduit on the slab, which is more reinforced than the yellow conduit for walls, and the so-called HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) conduit for floors directly buried in the ground, which is the most reinforced of all. What I’m going to say now is the most IMPORTANT: There’s nothing in the standard mentioning this, but for the love of God, do not use conduits smaller than 3/4” in your construction projects, even if the occupancy rate calculated in the project is being met! Thin conduits really get in the way of running cables, so make an electrician happy, use conduits at least ¾ inches wide! Back in our 3D house, it's time to start distributing the electrical conduits, and I always like to start with the QDC. I start by distributing them to the power supply points for specific-use equipment, such as the shower and ceiling boxes. I always like to distribute ¾ electrical conduits for lighting and sockets, and I prefer to use 1 inch for the shower. You can distribute them however you prefer, as long as you respect the minimum gauge calculated in the occupancy rate. We can also connect the electrical conduit that connects the meter to the QDC to the QDC. Here, we will use 16mm² cables for the power supply. Based on the occupancy calculation, this would result in a 1.¼ inch conduit, but in these cases I always like to add one more gauge, so let's put a 1.½ inch conduit here. The price of both is very similar and avoids problems with obstructions in the future. Once the power supply and distribution to specific points are complete, we move on to the ceiling boxes. The ideal is to interconnect all these boxes, even if it costs a little more electrical conduit, it is always good to have one. In addition to being a lighting point, they serve as branch points. From these ceiling boxes, we pass the electrical conduits that will go to the 4x2” faces on the walls, to serve switches, sockets and wall lights. Then, simply interconnect the wall boxes to each other. Always following the electrical project or sketch. My tip is to always go down with the piping from the room’s ceiling box at the switch and surround the room horizontally, even when interconnecting the sockets. This way, you save a lot of cable and create a single vertical line for the descent. When this is not possible, then it is necessary to branch from the ceiling box directly to the socket points, this also applies to circuits with thicker cables. Another tip that you can follow or not is to try to distribute the ducts thinking about dividing the circuits by room. In this house, we took a duct directly to the ceiling box in the kitchen, where we have a circuit just for kitchen outlets. In the bedrooms, we grouped all the outlets in another circuit, so the ducts were distributed between the closest ceiling boxes, always leading to one another, thus saving conductors from the same circuit.